Cookbooks become our friends in a way no other book can. With every recipe we create a bond with the author. For many years I feel I’ve been on a first name basis with Julia Child.
Then there are times when you have to pick favorites. In January three dozen cookbooks arrived at my door, all wanting to befriend me. I had agreed to become a judge for this year's James Beard Foundation Cookbook Awards.
Virtually all the books published in 2012 are in contention for these awards. They are sorted into several categories, and judges are assigned to each category. My assignment was to select the five best books. How to do it?
First, I skimmed through all the books The most attractive ones shared three qualities. First, their authors communicated a passion for their subject; next they clearly defined the goal of the book; finally, they concisely accomplished it. They used photographs and illustrations to cleverly enhance their concept and demonstrate techniques.
I chose five books. Then I tested some recipes from each before putting them in order. To my surprise, some of the recipes tested the limits of my comfort zone! I had to haul out my food grinder for one book, and order Korean chili pepper from Amazon.com for another.
My reward was some exciting discoveries. I found the French aren't the only masters of fermentation (think bread, cheese and wine). I am now a fan of Korean kimchi! A sample recipe follows. (I will identify the author and cookbook title after the James Beard Award winners are announced in May.)
Butternut Squash Kimchi with Kale and Pine Nuts
1 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeds removed, quartered and thinly sliced
4 cups of water
2 tablespoons kosher salt plus 2 teaspoons
2 cups Tuscan kale, rinsed and finely chopped
2 tablespoons Korean chili pepper powder
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon ginger root, peeled and finely grated
1 teaspoon sugar
Dissolve the kosher salt in 4 cups water. Add the squash and set aside for 40 minutes. Drain off the liquid and allow the squash to dry in a colander.
Toss the kale with 2 teaspoons salt and set aside for 15 minutes. Rinse off the salt in a colander, place the colander over a bowl and let water drip from the kale drip into it.
Combine the squash, kale, chili powder, garlic, ginger and pine nuts in a container with a tightly fitting lid. Add 1/2 cup water to the bowl under the kale. Stir in the sugar. Pour in enough water to cover 1/3 of the kimchi mixture. Cover and leave on the kitchen counter for 3 days (without opening!).
*Kimchi will keep for 1 month in the refrigerator.
Butternut Squash Kimchi with Spelt and Ricotta Salata
1 cup spelt, soaked 20 minutes in cool water, cooked according to directions
1 cup 3-day-old kimchi, coarsely chopped
1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1/4 cup ricotta salata or feta cheese, cut into small cubes or coarsely grated
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Let the cooked spelt cool before mixing it with the kimchi, pepper strips and cheese. Drizzle on the olive oil and toss this salad. Season to
